Installing and Breaking In the
Countertop Reverse Osmosis Unit

---

Both styles of our countertop reverse osmosis units come fully assembled except for inlet and outlet tubing and the RO membrane.

The inlet tube is black and it installs into the black housing. The outlet tubing, which carries the water you're going to drink, is white and it installs into the white vertical housing. The black drain tubing is already installed; it is usually just dropped into the sink or any other convenient drain.

Begin by installing the membrane.

Installing the Membrane in your Reverse Osmosis unit

The reverse osmosis membrane for your unit is packed in a special bag to assure long shelf life. It should be installed shortly before you plan to install and start up the unit. To install, remove the tube that enters the cap end of the membrane housing by pressing in on the collet of the fitting and pulling out the tube (Fig. 1). Then remove the membrane housing cap. It screws off counterclockwise. When the cap is off the housing, cut or tear the back end off of the sealed bag that holds the membrane. Cut off the end opposite the stem with two black o-rings. (It's best to avoid handling the membrane with your hands.) To install, grasp the back stem of the membrane (the end opposite the stem with the two o-rings) with pliers, and pull the membrane from the bag (Fig. 2). Holding the membrane with pliers, put it under a water tap. This isn't to rinse the membrane but to wet the o-rings and the rear skirt for lubrication so it will slide easily into the housing. When the membrane is wet, slide it into the membrane housing on the RO unit (Fig. 3), still holding it with pliers. It needs to slip into a slot at the front end of the housing. The best way is to push it to an easy stopping place, then twist and push with the pliers. You'll feel it slide into its slot (Fig. 4). Replace the cap and the tube and you're ready to go.

After the membrane is installed, attach both the inlet (black) and the outlet (white) tubes to the unit. The drain line (black) is already installed.

The tubes attach with quick connect fittings. Just push the tube into the fitting until you feel it hit bottom and you're through. On both units, the inlet tube (black), which will supply the unit with water, goes into the port that is marked "Prefilter Inlet." The outlet tube (white), which delivers the water you're going to drink, goes into the port marked "Postfilter Outlet."

Most countertop units use a standard faucet diverter as a source for water. To install the diverter, just remove the aerator from your sink faucet and screw on the diverter valve in its place. If it doesn't fit your faucet, use one of the adapters provided. If that doesn't work, call us, or take the problem to a good hardware store.

To operate the diverter valve, turn on the COLD water of your regular sink faucet. Pull out the small knob on the diverter. This will divert water from the sink to your reverse osmosis unit. When you turn off the water, the knob will pop back in and you'll have use of your regular sink faucet.

If you need more detailed instructions for diverter valve installation, go to this page on our website: http://www.pwgazette.com/docs/install-model77

Startup

Once the membrane and tubing are installed and the inlet valve is connected to your faucet, send water into the unit via the diverter valve. Expect some hissing and gurgling on startup as air is expelled from the unit. The black drain tube should be placed in the sink so that waste water can drain into the sink. Water, just a small trickle, will start coming from the black drain tube after a few seconds. After a few minutes, water will begin to come from the white product water tube attached to the "Postfilter Outlet" port. This is the water that you will eventually save for drinking, but for the first two hours of operation, allow it to run into the sink. This will allow the membrane and postfilter time to rinse.

After two hours of continuous operation, you can begin to collect the water in a container. The water may still be a bit cloudy because of air that hasn't yet worked its way out of the system, but you can begin to use the water at this point.

Operation

The two-hour rinse described above is for first-time use or after servicing the unit only. After the break-in, just turn on the water, let it run about one minute to drain to clear the water that's been sitting in the postfilter, then start catching the water.

Countertop units, in theory, but only in theory, make water at the rate of about 2 gallons per hour. There are many variables, however, that affect RO performance. The 50 gallon per day rating for the membrane, for example, was made with the assumption of a water temperature of 77 degrees F. Production goes up on warmer water and down, dramatically, on colder water. Other variables are TDS (total dissolved solids) of the water, hardness, and water pressure. As the membrane ages and as the prefilter gets dirtier, production will normally go down. The 50 gpd production is a theory, not a promise. Fifty gallons per day is about two gallons per hour.

RO thrives on use. If you'll use the unit often, the membrane will last longer and work better.

Servicing the Unit

For normal use, we recommend an annual change of the two carbon filters.

The membrane (horizontal cannister) is best monitored with a TDS tester and changed on need rather than time. Membranes sometimes last for many years. If you have a TDS tester, change the membrane when the RO water's TDS is 15% to 20% that of your tap water. (E.g., if your tap water reads 200 ppm, start thinking about changing your membrane if the TDS reading of the RO unit gets higher than 30.) Always take the TDS reading BEFORE you change the filter cartridges. New cartridges will corrupt the reading. If you don't have a TDS tester, change the membrane every three years, or if the water starts tasting bad. Don't hesitate to call us for advice if you're in doubt.

To change the cartridges on Style A, use the filter wrench to open the two vertical cannisters. Remove the old cartridges and replace them with new ones. On carbon block cartridges (which are standard for the unit), there is no up or down. On specialty (axial flow) cartridges, the small end of the cartridge (the end with the end gasket) goes up toward the cap. Replace the cartridges, tighten the housing with the wrench or with your hands Just get them snug no need to overdo it.

To change the cartridges on Style B, remove the old filters one at a time and replace. Precede slowly and pay attention so you won't have to call us to ask what goes where. On most Style B units, the cartridges are not identical, so be sure you put them in their right places. The quick connect fittings release by pushing in on the collet with your thumb and pulling out on the tube (or "plug-in elbow") simultaneously. It is important to note that the filters have a specific flow direction that must be followed. The flow direction is indicated on the filter.

For both styles, when the cartridges are replaced, restart the unit and allow it to run to drain for at least an hour before collecting the water. If you change the membrane, do a two-hour rinse.