Basic Annual Service for Q Series
(Hybrid Classic) Reverse Osmosis Unit

This is a step-by-step process. You don't have to follow this exact order, but it will be easier if you do. The instructions below are specific to our basic 4-Stage system. If your unit is slightly different, you may have to improvise or call for instructions.

1. First, check the TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) level of the unit if you have a tester. This is a test of the reverse osmosis membrane, not of the carbon filters. It measures ppm (parts per million, which is the same as mgl, or milligrams per liter.) The unit's product water should be about 1/10 the TDS of the tap water. For example, if your tap water has 500 ppm total dissolve solids, your RO unit should be running at 50 or lower. If you don't have a tester, take a guess. If the water tastes good, the membrane is probably OK. Membrane life depends on lots of variables, but a good RO membrane should last from two or three years to five or six. Call 940-382-3814 for other suggestions if in doubt.

2. Assuming the membrane is OK, turn off the inlet water at the inlet valve to the unit. Turn off the tank valve at the top of the storage tank. Open the ledge faucet. Wait one minute for pressure to go down.

3. Remove the old cartridges. Remember the order they were in. They should screw off of the caps easily. Replace with the new cartridges. Go on to step 4 unless you are replacing the membrane.

If the membrane has to be replaced, disconnect the tubing that enters the cap. (The cap is on the end that has a single tube — the other end has two tubes.) Unscrew the cap. Usually, you can do this by hand. If a wrench is needed, a channel-lock pliers usually works well. When the cap is off, pull the membrane out. It isn't screwed in — just pull straight back. Some membranes have a pull ring, some don't. If there's no pull ring, grap the membrane stem or anything convenient with pliers and pull straight back. When replacing the membrane, handle with care. Touch it as little as possible (it's packed in preservatives, and you should also avoid contaminating it with bacteria from your hands). Wet the membrane with tap water to make it slide in easier, then insert it. Important: Be sure it "hits bottom." To be sure, you can use a slight twisting motion as you push. If it doesn't seat properly, it won't work. Replace the cap and reconnect the tubing.

4. Slowly open the inlet valve and let water into the unit. Check for leaks. It is normal to hear lots of gurgling and air escaping down the drain. Next, with the ledge faucet open, open the valve on top of the tank. Let the tank drain completely. It may take some time. It will finally become a fast drip. The drip is the unit's production — the amount of water that it produces. It should be a fast drip or a small stream.

5. Now, pick up the storage tank. If it is empty, very light, close the faucet and let the tank refill. If it still has water in it — and this is usually the case — attach a bicycle pump to the air valve on the tank. (It's on top of some tanks, on the bottom of others, and sometimes on the side.. You'll have look for it.) With the faucet still open, pump air into the tank. Water will start to leave the tank through the open ledge faucet. Continue to pump air into the tank slowly and steadily until all water is out of it. It will return to a fast drip. Try to leave about 7 pounds of pressure in the empty tank. If you don't have a low-pressure gauge, guess. The exact amount isn't that critical. Don't over-air the tank, however, because you won't be gaining more pressure; you'll just be leaving less room in the tank for water.

6. When the tank is aired, close the faucet and let the unit refill. You're through. You'll have enough water to use in a few minutes, but it may take a few hours for the tank to fill completely.